British Virgin Islands

Looking for a different kind of adventure in the Caribbean? Try a sailing vacation with a crewed yacht. You can visit several different islands on one vacation, lie out on deck and enjoy the sun and the stars, swim, snorkel, and of course, sail the gorgeous seas. And the best part is that your cabin and galley are always with you so you can snooze, eat and drink along the way – like a turtle carrying his home on his back.

The British Virgin Islands cater almost exclusively to sailors or want-to-be sailors. On Tortola, the main island of the BVIs, there are several marinas that are home base for charter boat companies. In fact, Tortola is lauded to be the island where the bare boat charter business began with The Moorings, www.moorings.com in July 4, 1969 by Charlie Cary and his wife Ginny. The Moorings is today the premier charter yacht company winning awards from Travel & Leisure and Cruising World magazines. The Moorings boats are top of the line and the service is excellent. However, there are other quality charter boat companies located in Tortola, such as Horizon Yacht Charters, www.horizonyachtcharters.com located at Nanny Cay, and Sunsail Sailing Vacations www.sunsail.com at Hodges Creek Marina.

The great thing about sailing the BVI’s is that the seas are fairly mild and most of the islands are close enough to each other that you can sail to more than one of them in a single day. Some of the islands are privately-owned and public docking is not permitted. However, most of the islands are accessible to vacationing sailors.

The island of Anegada is off the beaten track – at 14 miles away -- and requires a full day sail, but this gem of an island has a never-ending beach that practically circles the island. [Insert picture here] Anegada means “drowned island” and is an all-coral atoll with the highest point at just 28 feet. This island is so flat that you practically sail right up to it before you see it. There is a Horseshoe Reef which sadly became a grave for over 300 unsuspecting ships that wrecked off this island in years gone by. Now, the island has a small village with schools, a clinic, police and fire stations and a couple of small restaurants.

The best eating spots, however, are the beachside grills that feature the delicious Anegada lobsters. Hungry folks can chow down right on the beach barefoot and in bathing suits. The pace is so relaxed and with no other land in sight, you truly feel as if you are at the edge of the world. In fact, you may sail up to Anegada and never want to leave.

Another not-to-be-missed spot is the exclusive Guana Island, a private island with a small upscale resort for only 30 guests – www.guana.com. Guana Island was once a sugar cane plantation owned by American Quakers. Now, the present-day owners have a keen interest in establishing Guana Island as a true nature preserve and wildlife sanctuary. The resort is closed to the public for several weeks each year, and the resort hosts conferences for the world’s most distinguished naturalists, botanists, biologists, and other scientists who gather there to study the island’s unique natural history. These scientists have declared that Guana Island has the “richest fauna known for an island its size anywhere in the West Indies and possibly in the world.” Guana Island is home to a myriad of plants and the Caribbean roseate flamingo, the land turtle, and the Anegada iguana, which was once found throughout the BVI and Puerto Rico, but now lives only on Anegada and Guana Island.

While you could drop anchor near Guana Island and swim ashore (the beaches are all public), a better bet is to tie up to a pubic buoy in Monkey Bay which is spitting distance to Guana Island. Monkey Bay is a MUST for those who love to snorkel. The waters are teeming with underwater life and you’ll eyeball huge schools of angelfish, five foot tarpons, nurse sharks, turtles, parrotfish, blue tangs, basically every coral reef delight.

Norman Island – www.normanisland.com -- is a great first stop after leaving Tortola on your sailing adventure, as it is a quick sail across the Sir Francis Drake Channel. Land is always in sight and there is a fun pirate themed restaurant/BAR waiting as soon as you dock – www.normanislandpirates.com. Norman Island is also famous for The Caves—a great snorkeling spot where you can swim right into three Dark geological formations (The Caves) or hover about outside them (which I prefer) and marvel at the schools of colorful fish darting about.

After lunching on Norman, head over in your dinghy and tie up to the Willie T, a floating schooner turned boat bar. The Willie T is a restaurant too, so you can enjoy rotis, conch fritters and hamburgers as you make your way through the margaritas, bushwackers and pain killers while the reggae rhythm pumps through your veins. Sit on the red railing and gaze down into the crystal clear waters to smile at the giant sting rays and other sea life flitting about waiting for dropped tidbits of food. If you stay into the evening, more folks cruise up and climb aboard and the party gets rocking. This infamous pirate bar is actually in the BVIs waters but the emerald hills and coastline of St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands are right before your eyes. It is like straddling two countries at once.

Next up is Peter Island. This island features a world class resort but its highlight is Deadman’s Bay, a fabulous BVI beach.

Virgin Gorda is the island farthest on the horizon -- http://www.britishvirginislands.com/vg.htm Virgin Gorda, which means “fat virgin” is famous for The Baths, a mysterious grouping of boulders and rock formations that stagger upon each other in unusual artistic proportions. Unfortunately, The Baths have become a bit over-run with cruise ship tourists. Although you should still dock in Spanish Town and head over to The Baths to wander through the rocky maze, once you are done, get back on board and sail over to the North Sound, home to numerous resorts, restaurants, bars, and beaches. Here you can try some windsurfing, kayaking, and kiteboarding for a little extra excitement.

Saba Rock, located in the North Sound right next to Virgin Gorda, is a sweet little island—and the only thing on it is a restaurant and a museum. Basically you can eat lunch and enjoy the 360 degree water views.

Tortola – since you must start and end your trip on this beautiful British isle, try to plan your visit around a Full Moon. That is because Tortola is the home of the most famous and off the hook Full Moon party at Bomba’s Beach Shack -- www.bombasurfsideshack.com. Dock at Sopher’s Hole and take a taxi to Apple Bay for the all night fete with a jamming reggae band – beware the Bomba punch and mushroom tea—you might miss an entire day of sailing trying to recover!

Spend a day heading up the North West coast of Tortola to Cane Garden Bay. There is easy anchoring there although the sea can be a bit rolly at times. Dinghy up to Quitos, the bright yellow restaurant/bar on the beach. Quitos is the place to be on Saturday nights with Quito and his band offering up excellent reggae music while you dance your cares away.

For lunch, walk down the gorgeous beach and stop at Myetts. The conch fritters are excellent and the key lime pie is the best on the islands. You could spend an entire day lolling about on Cane Garden Bay, but make sure no cruise ships are in that day, otherwise you will see plenty of day trippers crowding the beach and Myetts. If it is a cruise ship day, then grab a taxi and head over to Josiah’s Bay.

Josiah’s Bay offers a great surf beach from January to early April. The waves are perfect for beginners as well as die-hard surfers, but the sandy bottom makes it ideal for surf lessons. You can rent boards right on the beach and teach yourself or hire a local to teach you. Trust me, you’ll be inspired when you see those ten-year-olds hopping up on those boards and riding those waves in.

Afterwards, enjoy a hot lunch, a cold beer and relax and stare at the glistening silver blue waves. Fall asleep under a thatched roof shelter on the silky white sand, wake up, and make your way back to your boat. A perfect day!

If you have time, check out Jost Van Dyke, www.b-v-i.com/JostVanDyke. White Bay, which has the absolute whitest sand I have ever seen on a beach, is the home of the Soggy Dollar Bar, named because you have to swim ashore and your money will get wet—plastic baggies are recommended. This is a great hang out spot. There is an adventure tour company on the beach with ATVs to rent for exploring the island and trampolines and other water toys to indulge in.

This sailing vacation can be the most relaxing time you ever spent in the Caribbean. There is just something idyllic about sailing the seas and waking up surrounded by clear blue waters. Dive in first thing for a wake up bath. Make sure and purchase a tee shirt that says “Sail Fast, Live Slow.” That could be your new life’s motto.

Check out these web sites for more info on the BVIs:

www.britishvirginislands.com

www.bviwelcome.com